South Africa

I’ve always loved the Joburg Central Business District (CBD). But until recently most of the time I spent in the CBD was on weekends, which means I missed out on the hustle and bustle of the downtown Jozi workweek.

Lately I’ve been going into the CBD more often during business hours, and I’m discovering tons of great new hangouts. I’ve realized that working hours are the funnest time to be downtown.

My favorite lunch place so far is Anka’s Kitchen, a small restaurant serving home-style South African food at the corner of Loveday and Frederick Streets in Marshalltown.

Anka's Kitchen

Anka’s Kitchen and Anka herself.

I knew Anka’s was special the first time I drove past it, when I was headed to a meeting around the corner at the Reef Hotel. The place has an aura about it. I made a mental note to try Anka’s out.

A couple of weeks later I finally went to Anka’s for lunch with my new friend Wisaal, author of the awesome Jozi lifestyle blog Wiscellaneous.

Anka is an incredible woman, and there is a great story behind how her restaurant came to be. But I can’t tell the story any better than Wisaal already has on her blog. So please go over to Wiscellaneous and read more about Anka. I’ll keep it short and show you some pictures.

Anka's menu

I love how the menu at Anka’s shows you exactly what you’ll be eating.

Ankas counter

The Anka’s counter is packed every day at lunch time. It was actually relatively quiet at the moment that I took this pic. Check out Wisaal in the thick of things, documenting the scene. I’d forgotten how much I enjoy hanging out with other bloggers.

Interesting fun fact about Anka’s: The staff is all-female.

Anka's lunch

My lunch: Lamb curry over samp (samp is a kind of corn porridge — read about it here), with sides of spinach and pumpkin. And Tab. (That’s right, Americans. People still drink Tab in South Africa. I quite like it.)

Interesting fun fact about Anka’s food: The real specialties on the menu are lamb trotters (a polite term for lamb’s feet) and tripe (animal stomach lining). Neither Wisaal nor I were brave enough to try one of these dishes. (Wisaal has an excuse because she only eats halaal meat. I’m just chicken — pardon the pun.)

My curry was delicious and Wisaal also enjoyed her hake (a popular South African fish).

Wisaal and Anka

Anka rocked up while we were eating, looking fab. She sat down for a chat. Anka seems to know all of her customers.

Anka behind counter

Anka behind the counter.

Anka’s Kitchen is awesome and I will definitely go back: 1) Because the food is delicious; 2) Because I love Anka; and 3) Because the Jozi CBD rocks.

Maybe I’ll work up the courage to try the trotters someday. The tripe? Probably not. (Okay never.)

Anka's street

Anka’s Kitchen winds down on a Friday afternoon.

Stay tuned for more 2Summers/Wiscellaneous restaurant reviews.

I live in Melville, a “bohemian suburb” (as described by Wikipedia) just north of downtown Joburg. Although most of my recent posts have focused on the inner city, I’ve written frequently about my love for Melville.

However, I’ve never written anything about Melville’s history. In fact I knew almost nothing about the history of Melville until last weekend, when I took a walking tour of Melville with the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation (JHF).

Group at sushi place copy

Our tour group gathers on 7th Street with JHF guide William Gaul. 

The JHF, previously known as the Parktown Westcliff Heritage Trust, is a Johannesburg institution; it’s been fighting to preserve historic homes and landmarks in Joburg for almost 30 years. The JHF conducts walking tours on a weekly basis and I’ve been meaning to take one for years. When I saw a Melville tour on the JHF Facebook page, I knew the time had come. Continue Reading

Sometimes when I do walking tours in the inner city, I don’t have time to take proper photographs. Some parts of the city are just too busy, and I have to prioritize keeping up with the rest of the group over stopping to compose pretty pictures. I’ve written about this conundrum before in a previous post, Stolen Shots of Hillbrow.

Such was the case a couple of weeks ago when I toured Little Addis — Joburg’s bustling Ethiopain district — with JoburgPlaces. It was a busy Saturday and the city was packed. If I stopped to take photos I would become lost in a sea of shopping mayhem.

Joburg Mall

See what I mean? Continue Reading

Fashion is not really my thing. I don’t buy many clothes and don’t keep track of what is and isn’t fashionable. Fashion is not something I ever gave much thought to at all. Until I moved to Joburg, that is.

Joburg has a wacky, unpretentious, Africanized, anything-goes kind of fashion culture that I love. Park yourself on any downtown Joburg street, on any given Saturday afternoon, and within a few minutes you’ll see a man wearing a bright red suit, giant plastic glasses, and white patent-leather shoes (or some combination thereof). You won’t blink an eye because the man will somehow blend perfectly with his surroundings.

There’s something about Joburg that makes me wish I were more fashionable, while at the same time giving even less of a sh#t than I ever did before. Does this make sense? Probably not. Continue Reading

A while back I told you about a mystery monument, covered in a black tarp, in front of Chancellor House in downtown Jozi.

covered statue instagram

The mystery monument in February, just after it was erected. I can’t believe this was three months ago. It took a bit longer than expected for the unveiling to take place, as often happens with official city government ceremonies.

The monument was finally revealed by the mayor of Johannesburg this past Saturday. I went to see it the next afternoon. It’s glorious. Continue Reading

I sat in the Jozi Fashion District yesterday, watching a group of kids perform a traditional Tswana song and dance to celebrate Africa Day.

dancers

I took dozens of pictures of the dancers with my big camera. But the best shot of all was taken with my iPhone. (I’ll write more about my adventures yesterday in a future post.)

As I watched the dancers I started to cry. Not just a tear or two. Serious crying with tears rolling down my cheeks. It’s been a while since that happened. Continue Reading

I’ve landed myself a gig working on a book about Joburg’s northern suburbs. This assignment involves hanging around various neighborhoods — eating in restaurants, visiting shops, drinking coffee, taking photos, etc. — and writing about it. Cool, huh? (I’m f-ing lucky.)

The book will be published by Gerald Garner and will be called SandtonPlaces, a sequel to Gerald’s JoburgPlaces books. (You can read more about Gerald’s books, as well as his Joburg tours, on his website.)

SandtonPlaces will be about Sandton, obviously, but it will also include several of Sandton’s surrounding suburbs. Those of you familiar with Sandton are probably surprised that I’ll be writing about it. Sandton is not known to be the most interesting part of Joburg. Don’t worry though. The Sandton quirkiness is there, and I’m finding it. Continue Reading

It’s a long title, I know. I can’t help it though — it was an eventful day.

The purpose of the JCTA media weekend (read about the beginning of the weekend here) was to show the media (and the world) the great things downtown Joburg has to offer. And this city offers a lot. Therefore we were very busy on Saturday and we all had a ridiculously good time.

Here is a photographic narrative of my day.

9:00 a.m.: Constitution Hill to the Carlton Centre with Walk & Talk Tours

walking the ramparts

Walking the ramparts around the Old Fort Prison on Constitution Hill.

On Saturday morning the journalists were broken into small groups, and each group participated in a different activity. I believe my group got the most exhausting activity of all: a marathon walk from Constitution Hill to the Carlton Centre with an outfit called Walk & Talk Tours. I’m not complaining though. I love walking in the city and we saw lots of great stuff. Every time I take a walk like this I discover new things.

Kitcheners old-timers

Near the beginning of the walk, our group stopped for a breakfast visit to the Neighbourgoods Market in Braamfontein. Alessio and I grabbed coffee at the market and then crossed the street to Kitchener’s Carvery and Bar — a legendary Braamfontein pub. We found a bunch of regulars sitting at the bar (at 10 o’clock in the morning), who accosted us and demanded our help in naming the Seven Dwarfs.

Eland

The Eland statue at the corner of Ameshoff and Bertha Streets in Braamfontein. The Eland is one of the most recognizable public artworks in Joburg. It was constructed by artist Clive van den Berg in 2007 and weighs 20 tons. 

toy salesman

Interesting toys for sale on Diagonal Street.

Diagonal

Diagonal building on Diagonal Street.

following the dots

Walking along Main Street, “following the dots”. Beryl, the leader of Walk & Talk Tours, placed these colorful dots all along our route.

Carlton

Our destination: The Carlton Centre. The only downside was that we ran out of time and didn’t get to go up to the top.

12:30 p.m.: Fashion Show in the Fashion District

Fashion square

Fashion design fans get ready to watch an African fashion show.

We hopped a shuttle from the Carlton Centre and met up with the rest of the group, which was gathered in the Jozi Fashion District. The Fashion District, which is right smack in the middle of the city, is incredibly cool. I’m ashamed that I haven’t written about it before, but I’m actually going on another tour there this coming weekend and will write about it then.

Anyway, we were lucky enough to catch a fashion show, put on by students designing clothes with shwe-shwe fabric.

Fashion runway

Walking the runway.

model

The male models received the most applause.

maternity models

I loved these shwe-shwe maternity outfits. Although I’m not sure any pregnant woman in her right mind would wear those heels.

2:00 p.m.: Lunch and networking at the Bus Factory

We had a networking lunch at the Bus Factory in Newtown, where the offices of the Johannesburg Development Agency are located. It was very nice, but I suffered a temporary fit of exhaustion during that period and neglected to take any photos.

4:30 p.m.: Sundowners on the roof of the Parktonian Hotel

Parktonian sunset

Pretty.

I’ve visited the Parktonian’s beautiful rooftop bar before so I won’t show you too many photos of the view this time. However, the most notable part of our sundowner event on Saturday was not the view, but the Mexican theme. The servers were decked out in ponchos and sombreros, and Mexican food and drink was served. I was very excited by this. My love for Mexican food is well known.

sombrero guy

The mini nachos and guacamole weren’t great. But the servers’ outfits were fabulous beyond words, as was the white Irish-South-African mariachi musician (you can see him in the background of this pic) who strolled around with a Mexican guitar and portable stereo speaker singing “La Bamba” in an Irish accent.

There was lots of tequila at the Parktonian, which put everyone in a fine humor and helped us to forget how cold it was up there.

Well done, Parktonian. I heart you.

7:30 p.m.: Dinner at the Forum – Turbine Hall

Turbine Hall

Turbine Hall.

Turbine Hall, in Newtown, used to be a massive power station. Eventually it became a derelict building that housed hundreds of homeless people. Then, about ten years ago, the building was rehabilitated into an amazing event space.

We had dinner there on Saturday, at an opulent underground venue called the Forum.

Forum table

Table set for 75.

Laurice hammering

This is Laurice. She writes a cool blog called “Nothing to Do in Joburg Besides”. Somehow she got assigned the difficult task of hammering open this elaborate dish — a hard, salty bread crust with beef fillet inside. I can’t remember what it’s called. (Sorry. I drank tequila.)

The Forum is occasionally open to the public for dinner and other events. I highly recommend it.

I left the Forum at around 10:00 p.m., tired and full. I was asleep by 11:00.

The weekend continued on Sunday, when we spent the morning and afternoon touring the Maboneng Precinct. I’ve written a lot about Maboneng before though, so I will stop here. Writing this post has exhausted me all over again.

I love Jozi. The end.

This past weekend, I joined 75 journalist/writer/blogger/photographers on 48-hour whirlwind tour of the Joburg inner city, sponsored by the Joburg City Tourism Association. It will come as no surprise that I had an amazing, bad-ass time.

Heather at Corner House

This is me, having a bad-ass time in the Joburg inner city. (Photo: Gareth Pon or Tim Van Rooyen. Not sure which.) Continue Reading

Last night I attended an art exhibition called the Postcard Revival on the top floor of the Barbican Building, one of the most iconic buildings in downtown Joburg. I have no time to tell you anything about the exhibition, or the glorious building in which it took place.  But I’m making time to show you one photo that I took from the Barbican’s 10th-floor balcony.

Gauteng legislature sm

Ah, Joburg City. I heart you. (This is the Gauteng Legislature building.)  Continue Reading