36 Hours in the Lowcountry

Hooray for WordPress, who Freshly Pressed Voortrekker: My New Favorite Afrikaans Word on Thursday. Thanks to everyone who read, commented on, and subscribed to my blog over the last few days.

For new readers expecting posts about South Africa: I’m in the States and have been blogging about America for the past two weeks. I’ll return to my usual subject matter later this week.

♦    ♦    ♦    ♦    ♦    ♦

Between stints in Washington D.C., Maryland, and Virginia, I squeezed in a 36-hour visit to Hilton Head Island, South Carolina, where my mother lives. Hilton Head is a small island in the “Lowcountry” – a marshy region along the South Carolina/Georgia coast made famous by the movie Forrest Gump.

A Hilton Head marsh – classic Lowcountry topography.

In a lot of ways, Hilton Head doesn’t feel authentically Southern. Development on Hilton Head began about 50 years ago when a bridge was built from the mainland. It became a haven for vacationers and retirees (like my mom), most of whom came from the North in search of warmer weather. Hilton Head’s most defining features are its tastefully designed shopping centers, ubiquitous high-end restaurants, golf courses, and gated communities – called ‘plantations’, but they aren’t plantations at all – filled with modern beachfront mansions.

But the good news is that Hilton Head’s developers and government leaders were smart enough to put an eye toward conservation. There’s still a lot of natural beauty on the island, and if you look hard enough you’ll find pockets of authentic Lowcountry culture.

Hilton Head has beautiful forests, filled with century-old live oak trees draped with Spanish moss. Unfortunately the forests are also filled with tiny biting insects called no-see-ums. No-see-ums don’t like Mom, but they really like me.

Low tide on the mud flats at Fish Haul Creek Park. Hilton Head has many more conventional, vacation-y beaches, but the marshy beaches are less crowded and great for walking.

Trudy, mom’s miniature schnauzer, loves running on the beach.

There were legions of sand crabs on the beach, scurrying in thousand-strong columns.

After our walk we had lunch at Roastfish and Cornbread, which serves traditional Lowcountry food with a contemporary accent.

Roastfish and Cornbread.

The Roastfish and Cornbread chef, David Vincent Young, is a native of Hilton Head. According to the restaurant’s menu, he was raised in his great-grandmother’s Gullah kitchen. The Gullah are a group of African Americans who have been living in the Lowcountry for generations. They have a unique cultural heritage and strong ties to West Africa. Gullah cooking is legendary.

Blackened red grouper, hush puppies (balls of sweet fried dough), buttery stone-cut grits, and a country bean blend with pork.

Portobello mushroom sandwich with mango-avocado-tomato relish and lentil salad. The mushroom is hidden beneath all the other deliciousness.

The meal was delicious and represented all the best things about Hilton Head. It also reminded me a little bit of my new African home.

Chef David, posing in front of a mural in the restaurant painted by a local artist.

P.S.: I don’t have photos of this, but later that day we went to the weekly farmer’s market in the nearby town of Bluffton and bought a container of shrimp gumbo from “We Island” Gumbo n’ Tings. I ate a bowl of it while standing at Mom’s kitchen counter at 10 p.m. that night. It was so good that I nearly fell over. If you ever visit the Lowcountry, do not miss this gumbo. It’s a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

Previous Post Next Post

15 Comments

  • Reply ....RaeDi September 11, 2011 at 7:36 am

    I lived in Charleston, SC about 1.5 life times ago, it was nice to read about my old stomping grounds….RaeDi

    • Reply 2summers September 11, 2011 at 4:05 pm

      Glad you enjoyed it! I love Charleston too.

  • Reply Caroline Hurry September 11, 2011 at 7:54 am

    This is ABSOULTELY delightful Heather … please post a link to this on travelwrite’s Facebook wall at http://www.facebook.com/travelwrite
    i have made you an administrator (exactly so you can alert travelwrite readers to your 2summer blogs) … this is too beautiful. I love it.l
    Cheers
    Cxx

    • Reply 2summers September 11, 2011 at 4:05 pm

      Thanks so much Carrie! I’ll do that right now.

  • Reply lisa@notesfromafrica September 11, 2011 at 8:34 am

    Beautiful photographs of an interesting area. That food looks SO good!

  • Reply Tea Norman (@topazshell5) September 11, 2011 at 10:53 am

    I had a wonderful time visiting Hilton Head through you. I can tell Trudy is just luvin’ it. The tree surrounding Chef David’s restaurant house is gorgeous. Thanx.

    • Reply 2summers September 11, 2011 at 4:11 pm

      Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for reading.

  • Reply Slowvelder September 11, 2011 at 3:31 pm

    It looks so pretty there Heather. Enjoy the rest of your trip.

  • Reply Kathryn McCullough September 11, 2011 at 5:09 pm

    Ah, it is Hilton Head! Cool. What wonderful photos, and how fun to see your mom’s puppy pouncing down the beach. Congrats again on FP! I’m so happy for you, my friend!
    Kathy

    • Reply 2summers September 12, 2011 at 12:32 am

      Thanks Kathy! Funny story about Trudy, mom’s dog. I meant to write this into my post but forgot. Trudy ALWAYS rides in the front seat of Mom’s car. If mom has another passenger, Trudy will ride on the passenger’s lap and that’s all there is to it. On the way back from the beach, I was hot and sweaty and didn’t feel like having a hot, sandy dog on my lap. So I rode in the backseat, and Trudy sat in the front. Would have made a funny picture if there was someone else to take it.

  • Reply Genie Parrish September 11, 2011 at 6:14 pm

    A month ago I visited Savannah for the first time and fell in love. Your photo of the live oak with spanish moss was a thrill. Thanks

    • Reply 2summers September 12, 2011 at 12:29 am

      I love Savannah too. Wish I’d had time to visit this time around.

  • Reply The GypsyNesters December 10, 2011 at 12:05 am

    Roastfish and Cornbread looks fantastic! Thanks for the tip, we’ll have to check it out next time we are in the low country.
    -The Gypsynesters

    • Reply 2summers December 10, 2011 at 9:49 am

      Definitely do that. That was one of the best meals I’ve ever had there.

    Leave a Reply

    %d bloggers like this: