I’ve landed myself a gig working on a book about Joburg’s northern suburbs. This assignment involves hanging around various neighborhoods — eating in restaurants, visiting shops, drinking coffee, taking photos, etc. — and writing about it. Cool, huh? (I’m f-ing lucky.)
The book will be published by Gerald Garner and will be called SandtonPlaces, a sequel to Gerald’s JoburgPlaces books. (You can read more about Gerald’s books, as well as his Joburg tours, on his website.)
SandtonPlaces will be about Sandton, obviously, but it will also include several of Sandton’s surrounding suburbs. Those of you familiar with Sandton are probably surprised that I’ll be writing about it. Sandton is not known to be the most interesting part of Joburg. Don’t worry though. The Sandton quirkiness is there, and I’m finding it.
Anyway, Gerald gave me the go-ahead to publish some of my discoveries here as I go along. I’ll start by telling you about Norwood, which is not part of Sandton, but due north of downtown Jozi on the way toward Sandton.
Grant Avenue, Norwood.
Norwood is one of the city’s most interesting suburbs. I like Norwood because it reminds me of Melville, where I live. Grant Avenue is to Norwood what 7th Street is to Melville.
As with Melville, many people believe Norwood is past its heyday — that the area is declining into oblivion.
I don’t know what Norwood was like before, but from what I’ve seen I disagree. I found so many interesting things to explore and discover in Norwood. Here are just couple of the quirkiest highlights along Norwood’s Grant Avenue main drag.
Ladies schnitzel burger at Ready to Go (RTG), an American-style kosher diner on Grant.
I could write a whole post about the enjoyable yet bizarre lunch that I had at RTG. It’s a Jewish deli/American-style diner, serving kosher meat and no dairy. (There is a large Jewish community in Norwood.) As I walked by, two regulars named Raffi and Gavin invited me to sit with them. They regaled me with stories about life in Joburg.
I got up to take some photos of the restaurant and was questioned — in a friendly but pointed manner — by two members of the community police who were eating in the restaurant. The men asked me for my business card and my ID. Then they asked if I’m Jewish, which, incidentally, I am. I was then allowed to continue taking photos. It was so hilarious. I loved it. My schnitzel burger was good too.
Cappuccino at the Ascot Hotel.
Hidden on a quiet Grant Avenue corner is a small, unassuming boutique hotel called the Ascot. This place is a best-kept secret — it’s classy, cool, and unpretentious all at once. The small lounge/restaurant is great for coffee, cocktails, or a meal. There’s live jazz at the Ascot on Saturday nights. I also saw one of the hotel rooms, which was beautiful. I’d love to stay there.
The Cherry Boutique and Spa. This is not your run-of-the-mill spa. I think the photo speaks for itself.
The Cherry Boutique and Spa is ajacent to the Ascot. The two places are under the same ownership. While having coffee at the Ascot I started chatting with Nicky, the owner, and she took me over to see the spa. Spas don’t usually excite me that much but I was really taken by Cherry’s friendly staff and quirky, whimsical, slightly naughty decor. Nicky invited me to come back for a free pedicure, which I thoroughly enjoyed. I’ll definitely go back. [UPDATE: As of February 2014, Cherry seems to have closed down. Shame.]
In addition to the Jewish community, there is also a large Italian community in Norwood. Giovanni’s is the most popular Italian restaurant there. I haven’t gotten the chance to eat there yet. But I love the sign.
Shakshuka at Zahava’s.
There are a couple of great Mediterranean restaurants on Grant, including Zahava’s. Zahava’s doubles as an art gallery and also has a beautiful outdoor courtyard in the back. I sat at the front counter, overlooking the street, and had the shakshuka: an Israeli dish of eggs, veggies, and tomatoes baked together in a skillet. So good.
Mounds of schwarma toppings at the Schwarma Company.
The Schwarma Company is the most popular restaurant on Grant Avenue. The schwarmas, the desserts, the Turkish coffee, the hot guy who owns the place…It’s all awesome. Go. Enough said.
Antique furniture spills onto the street outside the Lamp Post.
The Lamp Post is an antique shop. It’s also a cafe, a tailor, an art studio, and an event venue. It’s quirkiest shop on Grant Avenue. Worth a visit.
Happy man outside the city park on the corner of Grant Avenue and Ivy Road. This park is beautiful and well-kept — a great place to hang out on a nice day.
Another shot of the park.
Nightfall at the Stage Door Café.
There used to be a restaurant in Norwood called the Piccolo Café, which was famous for its pizza and its drag shows. The bad news is that Piccolo closed last year. The good news is the space has been taken over by Michael Southerden and his partner Kevin Mills-Davies, and re-opened as the Stage Door Café. My friend Michelle and I stumbled in there by accident one evening and soon found ourselves engrossed in conversation with Michael and eating delicious peri-peri chicken livers and margherita pizza.
Stage Door is a lovely, charming place designed with a theatrical theme. It had only been open two weeks when I went, but apparently Kevin is a seasoned drag performer and the shows will be starting up again soon.
Norwood sunset Instagram.
These are just a few Norwood recommendations to get you started. There will be more in the book.
My SandtonPlaces explorations continue. Stay tuned for more from Jozi’s northern suburbs.
Honestly, I’m welling up. I lived in Norwood for years, if Meat on Grant Avenue is still thriving you have to get their biltong, the best in town. And Giovanni’s had the best pizza I ever tasted, if it’s the one I’m thinking of,up near Kookies. Oh man. The original houses were apparently for railway employees, I was told, although no railway nearby so that might not be true, and there were still pondokkies with their pressed ceilings dotted about 15 years ago, although most had been demolished in favour of bijou millionaire residences on those tiny pieces of land. It was THE place back then, by the time we sold our pondokkie and left, I’m sorry to hear it is declining. Once again, so enjoying your blog. Didn’t realise you were in Melville, and now I’m nostalgic for Koljander as well. Time for a Joburg holiday, I think.
Ah, cool. I’m glad this post is bringing back memories for you. Yes, Meat on Grant is still there! Very nice, too. (It will be in the book.) I’ve also written a post about Koljander — here it is if you want to keep reminiscing 🙂
http://430779ae203f.xneelosites.com/2011/03/24/handmade-on-melvilles-main-road/
Koljander blog was lekker, thanks – hope you’ve tried their melk tert. Damn, definitely time for a trip back.
There’s no equivalent to home-industry shops like Koljander in the UK and when I’ve tried sounding people out they assure me there’d be no interest!
Weird. Who wouldn’t like homemade stuff??
Tough job you have 🙂 If I *ever* leave the city, Norwood is on the list…
Hahaha. I love that you never leave the city 🙂
Congrats on your fab job! Smokey will be thrilled you can continue to support him in the manner he deserves! 🙂
Ha, thanks! Smokey does lead an expensive lifestyle.
I LOVE Norwood! Think it’s time I pop in for a visit again.
I’m glad I reminded you 🙂
Im so glad you have featured my neighbourhood, Norwood!! I live in one of the “bijou residences” that elegsabiff wrote about. I have always wondered who the original houses were built for. I think Melville has the edge on quirkiness maybe because the general population of Norwood is older. Norwood is very Jewish but has a strong African diaspora presence as well- mainly Francophone. I see that an Ethiopian restaurant has opened opposite Ascot. Shwarma Company is my favourite spot. Meat on Grant and the Lamp Stop are definite visits.
We should meet at the Schwarma Company sometime soon!
Just wish it’d be more clean! You also have to sift through the restaurants available, it’s kinda okay!
Yep, like every other place in Joburg (and the world), you have to separate the good from the bad. Thanks for the comment!
Hi,
“Piccola” was actually called “piccola prima donna”.
It closed because one of the owners (and drag artiste), Fabrizio, passed away in a motor vehicle accident a few years’ back.
I remember those shows well – what fun!
Sad story 🙁
yes! Norwood has a lot to offer this day, now not to miss the new Queen Sheba Ethiopian restaurant it give you a real African experiance with their beautiful set up to tske you with their exotic ethiopian food!
should try worth it!
Yes, I’ve been to Queen Sheeba before and loved it. I think I even mentioned it in my blog once.
Awesome blog. I have fond me,or ies of Norwood as a child growing up in yoevil. IM actually looking at opening up a restaurant on grant.thanks for your insight to the place
Thanks so much, Chad. Thanks for the comment and I’m glad you’re enjoying the blog.