Portraits From the Kingdom in the Sky

Very few people in the world know that there is a tiny country in Africa called Lesotho. Fewer still know how to pronounce it. (It’s Leh-SOO-too.) Even fewer still have actually been there, which is a pity because Lesotho is a beautiful, mystical place.

Yellow van copy

Lesotho, which has the highest mountains in Southern Africa, is called the Kingdom in the Sky. 

I’m fortunate to live in Lesotho’s closest neighbor — South Africa surrounds Lesotho on all sides — and it’s an easy drive from Joburg. I went there twice on back-to-back work trips in September 2010 and have been yearning to return ever since. Last month I finally did.

I had an amazing trip and I’ll tell you all about it soon. But I took way too many photos in Lesotho to squeeze into one post, so I’m going to start with a post of portraits.

In my experience the Basotho (as people from Lesotho are called) are often shy, so shooting their portraits isn’t always easy. (Actually shooting portraits is almost never easy, anywhere.) I had to choose my moments. But Lesotho’s dramatic scenery makes an amazing portrait backdrop, so I kept trying. A few times I succeeded.

Lady herder and boy

I took this during a pony trek that my friend Michelle and I took along a gorge near our lodge. (More on that later.) This woman was the nicest person I met on the trip, and sadly I forgot to ask her name. She chattered on and on to me in Sesotho (the language spoken in Lesotho), and was undeterred by the fact that I only knew one word: Dumela (hello). She was herding sheep, which women almost never do in Lesotho. I learned through our guide that she was filling in for her male relatives, who were away at a funeral. I didn’t learn the boy’s name either, but he and his brother loved getting their photo taken.

Lady herder

Even though we couldn’t really communicate and only met for a few minutes, I felt a real connection with this woman.

Basotho dog

I took dog portraits too. This dog was helping to watch over the unnamed lady’s sheep. Dogs are highly valued in Basotho culture and tend to be particularly well-behaved and well-cared-for.

Richard playing drum

Richard is one of the drummers in a band called Sotho Sounds, which played every other night at the Malealea Lodge. I’ll also have more to say later about Sotho Sounds. I took hundreds (and hundreds) of pictures at their performances.

Beer lady

This is Malekau. She makes a living brewing beer for the Malealea community.

Lambs

Lamb sibling portrait. Herding is the main source of income for most Basotho families. Walking around in the countryside, we were consistently surrounded by a soft, tinkling melody. It was the bells around the necks of the sheep, goats, and cows.

Man on horse

A man and his horse.

Red umbrella

Not really a portrait but I had to include it anyway.

Boys on donkey

These kids rode past me on a donkey. Right as they were passing they asked me to take their picture. I was lucky to get one in focus.

Cat lady

This lady sells handicrafts out of her home in Malealea. I was so enamoured with her cat that I forgot to ask her name, too. (I really dropped the ball on name-gathering this trip.)

Herding

Also not a portrait but I wanted to include at least one cow photo in this post. Note how many different animals are represented in these pictures — animals are really important in Lesotho. Come to think of it, that might be one of the reasons why I like it so much there.

Toward the end of my stay I learned that one of our hiking guides, Malealea (he has the same name as his village), runs a business printing photographs for R10 ($1) each, in a small hut just outside the lodge. Malealea plugs his tiny printer into an electric generator the size of a small cereal box, which he charges using a solar panel. (The hut has no electricity.)

The morning that we left Lesotho, I took an SD memory card to Malealea’s hut, loaded with most of the portraits from this post and a few others. We printed as many as we could, and I gave the memory card to Malealea so he could print the rest of them another time.

Malealea and Richard

That’s Malealea on the left, with a photo I took of him wearing a traditional Basotho cow skin. And of course that’s Richard, the Sotho Sounds drummer, on the right.

I rarely give prints back to the people I photograph these days. I used to try to do it more often, but I take so many now and it just became too hard. So I’m really grateful to Malealea for giving me that opportunity. It meant a lot to me, and hopefully also to him and the rest of the people who received pictures of themselves.

I managed to learn one more Sesotho word before leaving Lesotho: Kea leboha, which means thank you.

Kea leboha, Malealea.

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33 Comments

  • Reply fragglerocking January 8, 2014 at 6:12 pm

    What fabulous looking place. I love mountains and that range in your ics is fabulous, the people look so friendly and full of character. Nice work!

    • Reply 2summers January 8, 2014 at 6:21 pm

      Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the post.

  • Reply darkjasm January 8, 2014 at 7:07 pm

    Kea leboha for posting about this very beautiful place. A temptation I couldn’t resist…

    • Reply 2summers January 8, 2014 at 7:10 pm

      Haha. I never learned the word for “you’re welcome” unfortunately. Sesotho is a difficult language 🙂

      • Reply Timmee January 8, 2014 at 7:15 pm

        O amohetswe

        • Reply 2summers January 8, 2014 at 7:18 pm

          Timmee do you speak Sotho?

      • Reply darkjasm January 8, 2014 at 7:31 pm

        Then it’s definitely an excuse to go back there… But this time, could I hop on your backpack? 😀

        • Reply 2summers January 8, 2014 at 8:07 pm

          If you can get to Joburg, you’re in!

          • darkjasm January 9, 2014 at 1:13 pm

            Now… Where can I hop to get to Joburg? *sigh*

  • Reply Timmee January 8, 2014 at 7:11 pm

    Love that you paid it forward

  • Reply WantofWonders January 8, 2014 at 7:19 pm

    These are beautiful photographs. Thank you so much for teaching me something about an unknown and almost never talked about place.

    • Reply 2summers January 8, 2014 at 8:04 pm

      Thanks very much, it’s my pleasure.

  • Reply andreaosterloh January 8, 2014 at 7:21 pm

    So beautiful!

  • Reply Gail Wilson January 8, 2014 at 7:52 pm

    Beautiful photo’s of a beautiful place.

  • Reply Louise Whitworth January 8, 2014 at 10:05 pm

    Just, what a fantastic post! Beautiful people, beautiful landscape – I can’t wait for more! I will always remember driving through the border to Lesotho at Easter and the woman handed us back our papers and said very clearly so we would finally stop getting the name wrong ‘Welcome! Now you are in Les-ooo-tho’ 🙂

    • Reply 2summers January 9, 2014 at 9:15 am

      Hahaha. It’s not a very intuitive pronunciation, is it.

  • Reply sandrarraias January 8, 2014 at 10:25 pm

    Reblogged this on kikolandia and commented:
    Nice, about Lesotho.

    • Reply 2summers January 9, 2014 at 9:14 am

      Thanks for the reblog!

  • Reply colin January 8, 2014 at 11:44 pm

    The pictures are beautiful, You are right the faces against the background is a powerful contrast.

    • Reply 2summers January 9, 2014 at 9:14 am

      Thanks Colin, glad you agree.

  • Reply Kathryn McCullough January 9, 2014 at 12:14 am

    What amazing faces! I’d love the know the elevation, but I can look that up. Looking forward to more from Lesotho!

    Hugs from Ecuador,
    Kathy

    • Reply 2summers January 9, 2014 at 9:13 am

      Hi Kathy, the area we visited this time is at about 2000 meters. I think there are some parts of Lesotho that reach about 3000 meters though.

  • Reply amelie88 January 9, 2014 at 7:43 am

    I had heard of Lesotho before, mostly thanks to the British monarchy! Prince Harry has a charity named Sentebale (which means Forget Me Not in Sesotho) and he regularly hosts events to raise money for it. I think he visited Lesotho during his gap year in Africa and he seems to love it just as much as you do.

    Loving these portraits, it gives you a real sense of the place.

    • Reply 2summers January 9, 2014 at 9:08 am

      Oh yes, I nearly forgot about that. Both the princes have been to Lesotho, actually. My late boyfriend Jon photographed them there a couple of times. On a related note, the Brits have a long political history in Lesotho and also introduced Basotho blankets there in the 19th century. I’ll be writing a blog post about that eventually.

  • Reply LittleAshCloud January 9, 2014 at 8:20 am

    Love them, they each tell a different story.

  • Reply Heather O'Keeffe January 11, 2014 at 4:00 am

    Reblogged this on Heather O'Keeffe.

    • Reply 2summers January 11, 2014 at 4:58 pm

      Thanks for the reblog!

  • Reply Emily Cannell January 11, 2014 at 5:40 pm

    My favorite pics of yours are always of the people. You manage to make everyone look so happy and colorful. Maybe it`s your perspective that brings it out in them. Love these.

    • Reply 2summers January 11, 2014 at 7:20 pm

      Thanks so much, Emily. That comment really means a lot to me.

  • Reply Stephanie January 17, 2014 at 11:21 am

    Love that you gave the pictures back to the people. I think I am going to have a little iphone printer brought here from the states to do just that. Then I don’t feel bad taking so many pics and can give back. Lesotho is truly a beautiful place and so agrarian. We had an interesting time there two years ago when we went from Clarens for about 7 hours and it was voting day.

    http://elliottstefan.blogspot.com/2012/05/lesotho-by-car.html

    We just returned from the Eastern Cape/Lesotho border and are planning our next Lesotho adventure. And yes I agree, Golden Gate is a beautiful little part of this country we are lucky enough to live in!

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