Istanbul: A Travel Blogger’s Dream (and Nightmare)

When I was invited to attend the World Tourism Forum in Istanbul, I decided to stay on for an extra week. I bought a guidebook, consulted with friends, and made plans with Meruschka, who was also traveling to Istanbul for the forum. A week should be plenty of time to explore the city, I thought — visit all the best tourist attractions and maybe fit in some locals-only activities. Right?

Flag guyA man sells Turkish flags outside the Spice Bazaar.

Ha! Wrong.

One week in Istanbul is nothing. We didn’t scratch the surface…In fact we didn’t even touch the surface. Meruschka and I spent a lot of time being lost and wandering aimlessly and taking hundreds of photos, which was awesome but we didn’t manage to do half the things we planned.

Suleymaniye mosqueThe Süleymaniye Mosque, largest mosque in Istanbul and reportedly the most beautiful. Alas, we never made it.

Istanbul reminded me of a few important travel lessons:

1) When visiting a huge, frenetic, culturally rich, ancient city like Istanbul, sometimes you have to throw out your guide books and to-do lists. Getting around takes time and it’s easy to get lost and distracted.

2) Getting to know Istanbul, which has tens of millions of people, thousands of historical sites, and a language barrier for those who don’t speak Turkish, is exhausting. Cut yourself some slack and don’t try to do more than a couple of planned activities each day.

3) Calm the f*ck down.

Actually, the only important lesson is #3.

Hence, I don’t feel qualified to create one of those “Top 10 Things to Do in Istanbul” posts that travel bloggers love to write. But I can provide a haphazard list of ten things we did that were really cool.

Cool Things I Did in Istanbul

1) Hagia Sophia

The Hagia Sophia is the most famous historic building in Istanbul, and the one tourist site that Meruschka and I made absolutely sure to visit.

Hagia Sophia outsideThe square in front of the Hagia Sophia.

Hagia Sophia insideThe Hagia Sophia was a cathedral for nearly 1000 years, before becoming a mosque and then a museum. Unfortunately a large part of it was under renovation when we visited (hence the scaffolding).

Hagia Sophia MeruschkaMeruschka in one of the Hagia Sophia’s upstairs halls.

2) The Blue Mosque

The Blue Mosque, right across the way from the Hagia Sophia, was the one place I managed to visit during my eight-hour layover in Istanbul last October. Obviously I had to go again so that Meruschka could also see the mosque’s signature blue-tiled ceiling. I had fun people-watching on my second Blue Mosque visit.

Blue mosque guyYou have to be both Muslim and a man to step into the main prayer area that takes up most of the inside of the Blue Mosque. This guy decided to sneak a selfie after he finished praying. 

3) Basilica Cistern

The Basilica Cistern, also right near the Hagia Sophia, is a huge water storage facility built in the 6th century by the Emperor Justinian. The cistern contains 336 stone columns and two enormous Medusa heads. You have to see it to believe it.

Underground cisternsA small part of the Basilica Cistern.

Underground cisterns MedusaGiant Medusa head.

4) The Grand Bazaar

The Grand Bazaar is jaw-dropping for its sheer size; according to Wikipedia it attracts 250,000 to 400,000 visitors a day. (This seems impossible to me, but who knows.) Be prepared for some friendly heckling from the vendors, who can smell a foreigner coming from miles away.

Grand BazaarOne of the main halls in the Grand Bazaar.

5) Neighborhoods of the Golden Horn

We took an amazing (albeit freezing) walking tour of Istanbul’s most historic neighborhoods — Fener, Balat, and Ayvansaray — with a local company called Fest Travel. This section of Istanbul has a huge number of Byzantine-era churches, ancient synagogues, and mosques, most of which would be hard to find without a local expert.

Armenian churchInside a historic Armenian church in Balat.

6) The Trams of İstiklal Street

İstiklal Street, which we first discovered on a walking tour with Context Travel, became my favorite street in Istanbul. The wide street is closed to cars for most of the day, and can only be traveled on foot or via the Nostalgic İstiklal Cadessi Tram.

Istiklal street carThe Taksim-Tünel Tram, chugging up İstiklal Street. We managed to ride the tram on our last night in Istanbul, through the tunnel that runs up Galata Hill. 

 7) Galata Tower

Galata Tower is one of Istanbul’s most recognizable landmarks. We never climbed it, but we looked at it from just about every angle.

Galata towerGalata Tower at nightfall, shot on my first day in Istanbul.

8) Ferry Cruise on the Bosporus

The Bosporus Strait divides the European and Asian sides of Istanbul. Taking a ferry ride up the strait (we caught the ferry from the Eminönü terminal for the equivalent of about $5) helped me get a feel for the geography of the city and put Istanbul’s massive size into perspective.

View from boatOur boat was surrounded by dive-bombing seagulls for the duration of the 1.5-hour ferry ride.

View from boat2The European side of the Bosporus.

View from boat3The Asian side of the Bosporus — I have no idea what this exquisite building is. (UPDATE: Thanks to my rockstar reader Catherine, I now know that this is the Palace of Kyyksu.)

9) Street Markets in Kadıköy

We only made it to the Asian side of Istanbul on one evening, which is a shame because I was dying to do more exploring there. But I was enamoured with our one stroll through the streetside fishmongers, spice stalls, bakeries, and cafés in the Asian neighborhood of Kadıköy.

Kadikoy marketFishmonger in Kadıköy.

10) Chora Church

The Chora Museum, similar to the Hagia Sophia, is a sixth-century Byzantine-church-turned-Ottoman-mosque-turned-museum. Unfortunately it was also under renovation when we visited; the exterior of the church was surrounded by scaffolding and the majority of the interior was closed. (This was a bummer, especially since no one told us that the inside was mostly closed until after we’d paid our full admission fee.) But still, the mosaics and frescoes on the walls and ceilings of the church — even the few we were able to see — were worth the bus fare and admission.

Chora ChurchByzantine fresco in the Chora Church.

Bonus place: Buyuk Valide Han

The Buyuk Valide Han is difficult to find without a local. (We were lucky to go with Sezgi Olgaç, a Turkish Instagrammer who showed us around one afternoon.) It’s an old inn that now houses a warren of craftsmen’s workshops, whose roof happens to possess the best view in town. The han’s roof used to be a well-kept secret, but now the entire student population seems to know and gather there every afternoon for selfies.

Buyuk Valide HanThere was a long line of people waiting to climb on top of this mound on the roof. Each person or group spent at least five minutes getting her/his photo taken in a variety of poses. 

Buyuk Valide Han viewI skipped the line and shot this a few feet down from the crowded mound. Still not a bad view.

Looking back at this list, I take it back. We did a sh*tload of stuff in Istanbul. There are even a few things that I left out — like Topkapi Palace and the Spice Bazaar and all the beautiful graffiti — because this post is too freaking long already. And don’t even get me started on the food — I’m saving Istanbul’s food for a separate post.

A quick note about terrorism in Turkey. Terrorism is on everyone’s mind and there’s no denying that Turkey has had some issues lately. But terrorism is also an issue in France, Kenya, England, Indonesia, the United States, and several other top tourism countries. Isolated terrorist incidents, in my opinion, are no reason to avoid visiting an incredible place like Turkey. I made that decision before I went and it was the right one for me.

Heather stepsThe rainbow steps of Cihangir, home to the city’s cutest cats. (Photo by Meruschka Govender.)

More Turkey posts on the way.

My flight to Istanbul was provided courtesy of Turkish Airlines, the World Tourism Forum, and Blogger Casting. Opinions expressed are mine.

Istanbul sunset

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28 Comments

  • Reply catherine February 21, 2016 at 9:08 pm

    I can tell you have been bitten by the Istanbul bug! thanks for the very enjoyable posts on your ongoing Turkish adventure!

    • Reply 2summers February 21, 2016 at 9:37 pm

      Thanks! Sounds like you know a thing or two about it too.

  • Reply catherine February 21, 2016 at 9:21 pm

    Heather, I believe it is the palace of Kyyksu…

    • Reply 2summers February 21, 2016 at 9:34 pm

      The one on the Asian side? I’ll google it – thanks so much!

  • Reply David C February 21, 2016 at 9:41 pm

    Thanks for this article. Can’t wait for the one about Turkish cuisine.

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 2:39 pm

      Thanks David. I’m also looking forward to reliving it.

  • Reply thirdeyemom February 21, 2016 at 9:56 pm

    I would love to go to Istanbul! It has been on the list for a long time but I just haven’t made it there yet. Good to know that I will need a lot of time. Your photos are amazing!!!

    • Reply 2summers February 21, 2016 at 9:57 pm

      Omg you’ll love it – right up your alley. Thanks 🙂

      • Reply thirdeyemom February 21, 2016 at 10:10 pm

        I just know I need a lot of time and haven’t figured out how to work it in yet. 🙂 Will get there!

  • Reply Timmee February 21, 2016 at 10:28 pm

    Flipping amazing photos. I need to go.

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 2:35 pm

      Thanks Timmee. You’d love it. It has to be one of the most photogenic cities on earth.

  • Reply autumnashbough February 22, 2016 at 1:38 am

    Yeah, I’m with Timmee. Those are amazing. Thanks for taking us with you!

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 2:36 pm

      Thanks Autumn! Glad you enjoyed the trip.

  • Reply Lani February 22, 2016 at 5:06 am

    Istanbul looks like a traveler’s dream! I’ve actually wanted to go for quite some time. Something about those two worlds – east and west meeting.

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 2:36 pm

      You’d love it!

  • Reply Gail February 22, 2016 at 6:40 am

    You captured it well stunning photos. I was there in the early 70’s and fell in love with Istanbul.

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 2:37 pm

      Thanks Gail. I’ll bet it’s changed a lot since the 70s but I’ll bet there are also many things that have stayed exactly the same.

  • Reply Rosemary Jamieson February 22, 2016 at 6:57 am

    I have never had particular desire to visit Istanbul but this is a really inspiring article. Apologies by the way for not stopping to chat when I bumped into you on 7th Street but I could see the storm coming. And sadly I may have acquired some English ‘shyness’ /’aloofness’.
    Rosemary

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 2:38 pm

      Haha, you didn’t seem aloof at all. Thanks so much for saying hi! And thanks for reading my blog.

  • Reply catherine February 22, 2016 at 8:15 am

    yes it is the one on the asian side, let me know if you do think that is the one….

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 8:25 am

      Yep, I googled and it definitely is. Well done.

  • Reply catherine February 22, 2016 at 2:32 pm

    Goodie!

  • Reply Suvi February 22, 2016 at 7:57 pm

    How lovely reminiscing about my holiday in Istanbul a while ago looking at your photos and sights. My friend and I stayed a week as well and it really is the minimum for Istanbul. There’s so much to see and everything is so interesting and full of history. I just found some notes from that time and I’d written down every single “catcall” we got on the street. There were two pages of them! I’d say that was the only negative side to Istanbul but as I’d forgotten all about it, it couldn’t have been too bad 😛

    I am looking forward to your foodie post!!

    • Reply 2summers February 22, 2016 at 8:02 pm

      Haha, thanks for the comment. I don’t remember getting a single catcall – not sure how I feel about this 🙂

      • Reply Suvi February 22, 2016 at 8:11 pm

        Heheh 😛

  • Reply FactotumN March 7, 2016 at 4:20 am

    Great article! I worked on a small video project last year in Istanbul. Stayed for a week and had the same feeling that I didn’t scratch the surface. Istanbul is such a big city. Like the rule #3 🙂

    My favorite place is Buyuk valide han. I had a feeling that was in time machine there. More then 500 years old building with a lot of workshops, and dark hallways. Very hard to find a way to rooftop. And then perfect 360 Istanbul panorama from the roof.

    Don’t underestimate Asian side. Incredible sunsets from Camlica hill and Bosphorus cost near Maiden’s tower.

  • Reply Steve @ What Way Today May 18, 2016 at 3:12 pm

    Lovely post about a lovely city. Makes me want to go back, explore the markets and fill my face with all the delicious food. Midye Dolma!!!
    http://whatwaytoday.com/turkish-delights-in-istanbul-10-top-things-to-do/

    • Reply 2summers May 24, 2016 at 8:08 am

      Thank you for reading and commenting!

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