The Wilds: Joburg's Controversial Garden of Eden

There is a big park in Johannesburg, very near to the city center, called the Wilds. For many years I didn’t go there because everyone said it was dangerous. Even the name – the Wilds, bwahahahaaaaa – has a menacing tone to it. I assumed the warnings were legit.

I’ve now been to the Wilds twice over the last several months, and damn, is it beautiful. The Wilds is so stunning and peaceful and well landscaped and immaculately maintained that it puts most other Jozi parks to shame. (I don’t say this lightly, as I’m a serious fan of Joburg parks.) The park was opened in 1938, after the Johannesburg Consolidated Investment Company donated it to the city on the condition that the land remain in its natural state. The park is hilly and planted with thousands of indigenous trees and other native flora, crisscrossed by several kilometers of winding stone paths.

Walking through the Wilds
Walking on the wild side, through the Jozi Wilds.

Walking on the Wild Side

I don’t want to totally discount the perception that the Wilds is dangerous. I’ve visited lots of quote-unquote dangerous places in this city – Hillbrow, Alexandra, Yeoville, and many others – but none of them seem to elicit quite the same level of terror that the Wilds elicits in the minds of longtime Joburgers. From what I can gather there were quite a few very violent crimes – rapes, murders, and armed robberies – committed in the Wilds in the 1980s and 90s, and a group of university students were mugged there in 2012.

I can see why criminals would choose the Wilds as a place to commit crime. The park is vast and the vegetation dense, providing ample opportunity to hide and take people unaware. Hillbrow, Joburg’s most crime-ridden area in the late 20th century, is right next door, and the park straddles Houghton Drive – an easy escape route. And although the Wilds is now completely enclosed with fencing, it didn’t use to be. So yeah, I understand why people have historically been afraid to go visit the Wilds and remain afraid today.

But…I was in the Wilds last last Friday and saw no sign of anything nefarious. I saw families having braais (barbecues) and girls strolling with their boyfriends and groups of teenagers sitting on benches listening to music. I walked up and down the pathways with a group of friends, one of whom lives right next to the Wilds and goes there every day with his dog. I admired the skyline views, the aloe trees, the perfectly manicured lawns, and the ancient cycads inside the park’s greenhouse.

Last Friday, the Wilds was glorious in every way.

An expansive green lawn in the Wilds
The vast expanse of lawn near the Wilds’ Houghton Drive entrance.
A stone pathway in the Wilds
Michelle and Conrad stroll down one of the wide paths. Footing can be uneven so wear comfortable shoes.
Joburg skyline from the top of the Wilds
The highest point in the park near the famous stone sundial (which I forgot to photograph).
Joburg skyline from the top of the Wilds
One of the best skyline views in the city.
Green grass and fever trees in the Wilds
An explosion of green grass and fever trees.
Ancient cycads in the Wilds greenhouse.
Priceless cycad plants, which are kept in greenhouse at the Wilds. Unfortunately the greenhouse has been closed both times that I visited (hence the chainlink-fence framing in this photo), but I hope to get inside eventually.
Pedestrian bridge in the Wilds
Spiral staircase to the pedestrian bridge that connects the two sides of the Wilds across Houghton Drive.
Pedestrian bridge in the Wilds
The pedestrian bridge over Houghton Drive.
Sitting on a bench overlooking the north side of the Wilds
Fiver and Michelle check out the north-facing view from the eastern half of the Wilds.
Joburg skyline from the Wilds
Conrad, Michelle, Stuart, and Fiver regard another skyline view.
Wild dagga and the Hillbrow Tower, as seen from the Wilds
A glimpse of the Hillbrow Tower through sprouts of Leonotis leonurus (aka wild dagga).

The Secret is Out on the Wilds

My friends who live near the Wilds joked that they don’t want me to write about it, because then the secret will be out about how great it is. But the more people who visit the Wilds, the safer it will become. After years and years of terrible stories, I understand why so many Joburg residents are hesitant to go. Really though, this park is too beautiful to be virtually empty. The Wilds’ staff obviously work hard to maintain this park and they’re doing an amazing job. Their hard work deserves to be recognized and enjoyed.

If you love Joburg and you love the outdoors, then you are guaranteed to love the Wilds. Get some friends together, leave your valuables at home if you must, and go check it out on the next sunny day.

Walking in the Wilds
James, Fiver, and Stuart on a path through the Wilds.

The Wilds (see location here) has secure parking just off Houghton Drive and full-time security at the entrance.