Cheetah family feeding

Five Cheetahs and an Aardvark

We tiptoed along as the sun lowered behind us. The wind howled. Tendai pointed ahead and we could just make out the body of a large animal with three small, spotted heads bobbing around it. The body, we would later learn, was a kudu carcass. The spotted heads belonged to a hoard of little cheetahs.

Warning: Dead carcass imagery combined with extreme cheetah cuteness below.

Three cheetah cubsThree cheetah cubs — wait, make that four — hover around the kudu that their mother (lounging in the background) killed. 

We crept to within about ten meters of the cubs and I raised my camera to my eye, shooting madly. There were four cubs total. Their mom, wearing a radio collar, reclined under a thorn bush.

Tendai kept moving closer. Ray and I exchanged glances. Surely it can’t be safe for humans to walk within a few feet of a family of wild cheetahs eating a fresh kill?

But Tendai beckoned and he seemed to know what he was doing. Soon we were close enough to hear the cubs purring as they tore into the kudu’s flesh. The cubs occasionally glanced our way between bites. The mom ignored us.

CheetahsGet ready for lots more cheetah pictures.

Cheetahs

Cheetah tongue

Cheetah mom stands upMom, whose name is Chilli, finally pays us a bit of attention, giving us a polite warning to keep our distance.

Ray and I were at Samara, a private game reserve in the Great Karoo. Samara, as you’ve already guessed, is not your average game lodge. It’s luxurious, to be sure, like many other South African game lodges, with delicious food and excellent service and the usual trimmings. But the cheetahs set Samara apart.

Mom and baby cheetahMom and baby. These cubs are about four months old.

Cheetah family feedingAre you bored of cheetah photos yet? I hope not.

The Story of the Cheetahs

Mark and Sarah Tompkins started Samara 20 years ago, on land previously used for livestock farming. The Tompkins family gradually restored the land to its natural state and stocked it with wild animals that were originally indigenous to the Karoo but had long ago disappeared from the region.

The first cheetah, Sibella, came to Samara in 2004 and the cheetah population grew over time. Most of Samara’s adult cheetahs wear radio collars so researchers and staff can track their movements. (Cheetahs are severely endangered.) While the cheetahs are definitely wild, they are accustomed to human observation and don’t mind people coming into close proximity, as long we maintain healthy respect.

There are no lions or other big cats at Samara, so cheetahs are the apex predators. This charmed existence allows Samara’s cheetahs to behave a bit differently from cheetahs in places like the Kruger where they have to compete with bigger, stronger cats. For example, we were able to observe Chilli and her family with their kudu carcass on two consecutive evenings. Since there are no other predators around, they could relax with their kill in the same spot for as long as they pleased.

Cheetahs chowingChowing. The cub at the back on the right is called Stumpy because he was born with half a tail.

Cheetah cub

Enjoying Samara

Seeing wild cheetahs up close was a once-in-a-lifetime experience. (This was my aim for the weekend — it was Ray’s birthday and I wanted to do something he’d never done before. As far as wildlife goes, Ray has seen almost everything.) But tracking cheetahs is not the only great thing about Samara:

There’s the lodge itself, opulent yet understated, with its beautiful view, cozy fireplaces, and hearty food.

Heather in the Samara Manor HouseOur bedroom in the Samara Manor House. The four-bedroom house is usually reserved for small groups or families, but there was a wind storm just before we arrived and Samara’s larger Karoo Lodge was closed for repairs. So we stayed in the Manor instead and had the place pretty much to ourselves. (Photo: Ray)

Afternoon tea at SamaraAfternoon tea at Samara: devilled eggs and lemon meringue pie.

There’s the incredible Karoo scenery. The vast semi-desert is a totally different environment from other game reserves I’ve visited in South Africa.

Karoo Shepherd's treeA Karoo shepherd’s tree, the most distinctive tree species at Samara.

Heather and Ray on plateauRay and I sitting atop Samara’s mountain plateau, with the desert stretched out below us. (Photo: Tendai)

There’s all the other wildlife.

Giraffe familyA family of giraffes.

Giraffe nursingA baby giraffe nursing — I’d never seen this before.

Mom and baby animalsI can’t say the name of this animal in my post, as Samara is concerned about tech-savvy poachers. But you know what they are. 

Mountain zebraWe saw beautiful game on top of the mountain plateau. This is an endangered mountain zebra.

Black wildebeestBlack wildebeest with their funny horse-like tails.

There’s the staff.

Tendai and BenedictOur dynamic guiding duo, Tendai (left) and Benedict. All of the Samara staff members are excellent.

There are the sunrises and sunsets.

Sunrise at SamaraI barely caught this stunner of a sunrise in the parking area of the lodge.

Sunset at SamaraSunset the same day.

And finally, there’s the aardvark.

Aardvark at SamaraWe saw an aardvark! They’re similar to anteaters but eat termites instead.

Samara is known for its aardvark, one of the hardest wild animals to spot. (They’re usually underground and come out mostly at night.) As our final game drive drew to a close, we joked with Tendai that an aardvark was the last animal he needed to find for us.

Just a few minutes before we arrived back at the lodge, Tendai came through. We jumped out of the truck and followed the aardvark on foot until we were just close enough to see it clearly. Then it caught wind of us and scampered away.

Perfect ending to a perfect trip.

Cheetahs

Samara Private Game Reserve is a 3.5-hour drive from Port Elizabeth. Our stay at Samara was complimentary. Opinions expressed are mine.

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16 Comments

  • Reply cycou01 [ Ron Thompson] July 4, 2017 at 11:19 am

    Nice pics. I enjoy your posts. I have some ideas on subjects/places/topics that may be of interest to you.
    Please send me your email or contact details. Though a writer myself -Bicycles, Portuguese Food, Traveling the Gravel [the name of one of my previous columns in Ride magazine] Architectural Embellishment [read cast iron decoration on buildings] etc.etc. I do not blog and, in fact,am Technologically challenged so do’t do WAP or have Aps though I am semi operational on Facebook. As one of the originators of Qhubeka -the bicycles for kids in rural areas project- that is but one possibility I would like to talk to you about. Happy Independence day.

  • Reply Lani July 4, 2017 at 12:26 pm

    Auhhh-mazing! What a birthday treat. Ray will love you forever. Hahahhaa. Cool! Really love those cheetah shots, well, what am I saying, all of it! How special. xxoo

    • Reply 2summers July 4, 2017 at 12:33 pm

      I know, we were so lucky to have an opportunity like that. Ray isn’t easy to impress when it comes to wildlife stuff so I’m glad I succeeded 🙂

      • Reply Lani July 5, 2017 at 7:06 am

        Hahhaa. Not easily impressed, eh? Why? Glad your trip did the trick 🙂

        • Reply 2summers July 5, 2017 at 8:32 am

          Oh, it’s just because he’s been on a million safaris over the years on family vacations (like many South African kids) and had pretty much seen everything. But never an aardvark!

          • Lani July 6, 2017 at 7:28 am

            Ah, right. Cool!

  • Reply Katji July 4, 2017 at 12:56 pm

    Good photos! You did *so well* with the cheetah photos, especially. …And the sunset – good one.

    • Reply 2summers July 4, 2017 at 1:00 pm

      Thank you! This was such a great trip for photography.

  • Reply Fiver July 4, 2017 at 8:12 pm

    You saw an aardvark!!! Awesome. And you’re wearing the gloves!

    • Reply 2summers July 4, 2017 at 8:17 pm

      Haha yes. I love those gloves!

      • Reply Fiver Löcker July 4, 2017 at 8:18 pm

        Ah, glad to hear that.

  • Reply autumnashbough July 5, 2017 at 6:36 pm

    I am so impressed by the cheetahs! Also envious beyond belief. Did they chirp at you?

    So is the reserve strictly for photo safaris and tourism?

    • Reply 2summers July 5, 2017 at 6:42 pm

      Yes they made so many noises! Mostly purring and, well, sounds of chewing raw meat. Which maybe should seem gross but it wasn’t.

      I don’t totally understand your question about the reserve – please clarify.

      • Reply autumnashbough July 5, 2017 at 6:59 pm

        Do they shoot any animals?

        • Reply 2summers July 5, 2017 at 7:06 pm

          Oooh, I wondered if that’s what you meant. No, definitely not – no hunting. Although there are other reserves in SA, and some quite close to Samara I think, that do allow hunting. A very complicated issue in SA.

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