I’ve been wanting to visit Cape Agulhas since my first visit to Cape Town in 2011, when I took a day trip around the Cape Peninsula and learned that the Cape of Good Hope is not, in fact, the southernmost point in Africa. It took another decade but I finally made it to Cape Agulhas, Africa’s real southern tip, a couple of weeks ago.
Cape Agulhas is 200 kilometers southeast of Cape Town and not terribly easy to get to, as a large section of the coastline is a national park without any roads. You’d think after ten years of yearning to see this remote, magical spot — where I could look out over the water and know I was closer to Antarctica than I’ve ever been before — that I would maximize my visit when I finally got there. You’d think I would do my research in advance and see all the sights, like any respectable travel blogger (or any normal tourist, for that matter), would. But alas, if you thought that — you were wrong.
Thorsten and I took a mid-day drive to Cape Agulhas from Arniston, which is about 40 minutes away. We spent a couple of hours admiring Agulhas’ natural beauty, gazing up at the 170-year-old lighthouse, and photographing ourselves at the historic marker where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans meet. We had lunch in a pub in L’Agulhas (the town at Cape Agulhas), which may or may not be the southernmost pub in Africa.
But somehow we missed several of Cape Agulhas’ most important sights. Near the old marker is a huge Africa map monument, opened in 2019, honoring the continent’s southernmost point. We saw it from a distance but somehow just didn’t walk over to it, even though there is a really nice boardwalk winding down from the lighthouse and along the coast, incorporating the different monuments.
We didn’t go to see the wreck of the Meisho Maro No. 38, a Japanese fishing vessel that ran aground in 1982. Apparently the wreck is only a 20-minute walk from the southernmost point marker but I decided I was too tired.
Worst of all, we didn’t visit the Cape Agulhas Lighthouse Museum, which is inside the lighthouse. I’m actually livid with myself over this. We read later that it’s the only museum of its kind in Africa, and you can climb all the way up to the lamp at the top, and the view from up there is amazing, and…UGH.
For what it’s worth, I have a few excuses for this woeful travel-blogging performance:
- I was so excited just to see the southernmost point in Africa that I didn’t think about anything else once we got there.
- Thorsten and I woke up early that morning to hike to the Waenhuiskrans Cave, and we had already done a lot of walking by the time we arrived in L’Agulhas.
- I was wearing a new pair of sandals (very stupid decision — I should have worn sneakers) and my feet were sore.
- I was experiencing a delayed hangover from the previous weekend at Noble Vice.
At any rate, what’s done is done. L’Agulhas is a very remote place and I probably won’t get back there anytime soon. But even though I’m livid with myself, I’m still really glad we went and got to experience the beautiful scenery and a unique place in Africa.
A lazy blog is better than no blog at all. Consider my story and example of what not to do when visiting Cape Agulhas.
Awesome photos of what you did manage to see.
Thanks!
Just because, it is a must-see for any serious traveller. But whenever I have been there I am reminded of Samuel Johnson’s words on visiting the Giant’s Causeway: it is a good thing to see, but it is not such a good thing to have to go to see.
Yes, totally right. I’m okay with all the things I didn’t see except for the view from the top of the lighthouse. I’m so mad about missing that.
Thanks Heather – A lively and useful post, as always! It has encouraged me to make the trek there. Your photos are great – and Thorsten’s drawing so interesting. Very best wishes from Sixth Avenue in Melville!
Thanks so much Andy! I hope you’re well.
Awesome pictures again Heather and I’m jealous because your job being a blogger is absolutely stunning. Next time you go down there and write a new story about Cape Agulhas you should buy better shoes or go barefoot….or askt
Thorsten to carry you ???? You missed the most beautiful little museum of South Africa???????? the Africa Map monument and also the wreckage. Now you only looked at some blue water ???? at the most southern point of our country, of the southern hemisphere.
I know! I am sooooooooooo mad at myself.
I dunno, I think being at the tip of a continent where two oceans meet is pretty cool. The pictures are beautiful. But I am more for soaking in scenery (and eating delicious local food!) than museums.
Thank you for making me feel better! It really is beautiful scenery there.
The ocean(s) is(are) gorgeous. How is a museum shop going to compare to those cerulean waters?!
I totally agree with you, although I do really regret not climbing to the top of the lighthouse so we could see those cerulean waters from above.
I really enjoyed your post and the humorous tone! and really, you have been taking us on this amazing travelling adventure through South Africa for so ,so many years that you are excused for having once sore feet and being hungry!!!!!
Ahhh, thanks so much Catherine. That actually makes me feel a lot better 🙂
I’m genuinely surprised you didn’t see the Map of Africa – when you take photos of the southernmost marker you just turn around and it is literally there a few steps behind you.
Well, I didn’t want to get into this in the post, but another mistake we made was that we accidentally drove PAST the correct entrance to the marker and that map, pulled into a little-used entrance on the other side of the marker, and hence never walked past the map. It was a comedy of errors!
Oh my word, well at least you saw the marker which is the main thing anyway! 🙂
Hahaha, yes.
Well done.