St. Nicholas of Japan in Brixton: A Balm for My Messy Brain

I’ve been doom-scrolling too much and sleeping too little lately. The U.S. government has been hijacked by right-wing zealots. Women’s rights have been rolled back by 50 years. The South African government can’t provide basic services to its people and we face Stage 6 loadshedding tonight. The war in Ukraine grinds on. I’m struggling to cope with the world and I know I’m not alone.

I have a backlog of topics to blog about, but I can’t focus my brain enough to write more than a few hundred coherent words. So I’m going to say as little as possible and share photos from the biggest bright spot of last week – my visit to St. Nicholas of Japan Orthodox Church.

St. Nicholas of Japan Orthodox Church in Brixton
The St. Nicholas Orthodox Church in Brixton.

St. Nicholas of Japan

This tiny, white-washed church looks like it belongs in Mykonos but is actually one block from my house in Brixton. I’ve been yearning to look inside for years and I finally made contact with the parish priest, Father Elias Palmos, a couple of weeks ago. I asked Father Elias if I could take photos during the church’s Sunday service and he graciously agreed.

Pulpit at St. Nicholas of Japan
The pulpit at St. Nicholas. All of the beautiful icons in the church were painted by artist Cathy MacDonald. (Cathy’s daughter, Dionne, is also an artist and involved with the Spaza Art Gallery, which I blogged about recently).

I don’t want to say too much about St. Nicholas yet – I’m hoping my friend Ang of Jozi.Rediscovered is going to write a longer post about it very soon. (Hint, hint, Ang.) But briefly: St. Nicholas, founded in 1987, is a multi-ethnic Orthodox church and its services are in English, which sets it apart from other Orthodox churches. St. Nicholas is a missionary church and its parishioners come from a variety of religious backgrounds – Greek Orthodox, Russian Orthodox, Serbian Orthodox, and many other Christian faiths. I’ve never seen such a diverse crowd in a South African church before.

Inside St. Nicholas of Japan
The scene when I first arrived: The service hadn’t officially started but several people were praying as the choir warmed up.

You might wonder how an Orthodox church in South Africa was named St. Nicholas of Japan. Here’s your answer: St. Nicholas was a 19th-century Russian Orthodox priest who worked as a missionary in Japan, eventually building a Japanese Orthodox Church with more than 33,000 members.

Lighting candles at St. Nicholas of Japan
A parishioner and her child light a candle as they enter the church.

The St. Nicholas choir performs a cappella in four-part harmony. The choir director, Georgia Jammine, has been leading the choir since the church started 35 years ago.

Georgia the choir director
Georgia and the choir.

Now I’ll shut up and show you the rest of the photos.

Paintings in St. NicholasPaintings in St. NicholasPaintings in St. NicholasParishioner reading in St. NicholasPeople praying in St. NicholasCongregation in St. NicholasChild in St. Nicholas of JapanSermon at the Sunday Service at St. Nicholas in Brixton

I’m not a religious person. But my visit to St. Nicholas reminded me why people go to church. The service cleared my head, if only an hour or two, and gave me space just to be: to see the beautiful paintings, hear the beautiful singing, and listen to Father Elias’ sermon, the gist of which was (forgive me for badly summarizing your words, Father Elias): The world is a pretty ugly place right now, but we must just hang on and remember that God is love, people are (mostly) love, and love is love. It was nice.

Thanks to the congregation at St. Nicholas of Japan for welcoming me into your community. I’m sure I’ll be back.

Paintings in St. Nicholas

St. Nicholas of Japan is at 156 Fulham Road, Brixton. The Divine Liturgy (which I attended) takes place from about 9:30 to 11:30 a.m. on Sundays.