I don’t usually complain about life in Joburg, at least not publicly. But there’s been a lot to complain about lately. The city’s infrastructure has collapsed, resulting in horrifyingly frequent power and water outages. Potholes have grown into jacuzzi-sized pits and rather than fixing them, the city often fills the pits with dirt. At least half the city’s traffic and street lights are out. The economy is terrible, poverty is rife, and crime is getting worse, not better. Joburg mayors keep getting ousted and I’m not even sure who’s in charge anymore.
All these horrors are happening and it’s getting harder and harder to look away. And yet…I also can’t look away from the dazzling spectacle of Joburg in October.
Every year in October, the temperature in Joburg rises (quite a bit more steeply than usual this year, but let’s put the climate change panic aside for a moment) and the jacaranda trees start to bloom. At first it’s just a hint of purple — a clump of flowers here and there at the top of a particularly ambitious tree.
Sometimes the trees get off to a slow start and we worry it’s a bad jacaranda year — that the blossoms will let us down, just like the city government. But always, over the course of another week or two, the jacarandas come through. The purple spreads, then deepens, and then entire streets become enshrouded in puffy violet clouds.
As soon as the blooms pop out, they also begin to fall. The blossoms drop quickly on windy afternoons — like real, purple rain — creating the magical illusion of a purple carpet below a purple ceiling.
I used to feel sad when I saw purple blossoms piling up on the streets, thinking the falling flowers signaled the looming end of peak jacaranda season. But that’s the thing about Joburg in October: It lasts longer than you might expect. These jacarandas have staying power and the trees keep blooming for weeks, even as the blossoms fall. Joburg in October sometimes lasts well into November.
Peak Joburg in October
Last Sunday I realized the purple peak had begun. I got into my car in the late afternoon and drove slowly through Joburg’s older northern suburbs, searching for the best places to get out and wander. Other people were around, doing the same thing I was doing, which made me feel safe.
It was warm and my car windows were open; the sweet smell of jasmine wafted into my nose. The sun was about to set and it felt like rain. (The rains didn’t come that afternoon. But we’re finally getting the first heavy rains of the season right now, as I type this, together with that amazing first-rain smell — another great aspect of Joburg in October.) I played Taylor Swift loudly on my shitty car stereo and gulped deep lungfuls of air. I was happy.
Thank you, Joburg in October.
Jacaranda Walk Coming Soon
Quick post-script: A week from this Saturday, I’m hosting a jacaranda walk through Rosebank with the Johannesburg In Your Pocket Guide. I led one of these walks last year — it was really fun and I think this year is going to be even better. I highly recommend signing up now before the walk fills up.
I’ll have more on the Joburg jacarandas in a couple of weeks.
Yeah, sadly the jacarandas seem to be the only highlight amongst so much gloom in the city right now. Beautiful pics.
Thanks!
Gorgeous photos. These are some of the most beautiful trees in the world. Thank you!
Thank you!
It was lovely meeting you on our family photo shoot walk… and now I follow your blog! Its fantastic!
Hi Lara, oh yay! I’m glad we found each other 🙂
There is nothing more beautiful than streets lined with jacarandas in October. I always loved them in Harare too.
Yes! They come out earlier there.
Beautiful.
Thanks! The jacarandas miss you 🙂
I agree that you sometimes have to find your highlights in nature. Jozi is really a beautiful city these days with all the blooming Jacarandas. If the endless water problems and load shedding wouldn’t be there Jozi really would be a world-class African City. Now I’m not sure how to call this city…………
Yep, the water problems especially are very scary. At least it’s raining now!
Gorgeous pics, and good points.
Thanks Graeme!
The jacarandas are stunning and seem to be very early this year. Nice post!
Thanks!
You find your joy where you can. Well done. Those pictures are amazing.
Thanks!
They are splendid trees and you’ve photographed them so beautifully Heather! One thing you’ve not mentioned though is they lovely crunching noise car wheels make when you drive not too fast over the fallen flowers!! ????
That is very nice, now that you mention it.
Oh I love driving over the petals and hearing them pop!
Wonderful Post
Thanks
Thank you!
Thanks for the pictures. I lived in Illovo, and I miss Thrupps, trees and the birds of Earlridge and the video shop.
Thrupps is a cool Joburg place!
I can’t tell you how grand it wa to say, “Charge it to my account,” and having a trolley full of yum! Enjoy for me. Cape Town isn’t ugly, but my Spar has nothing kosher.
Interesting blog and I am sorry that things are sour there in Jo’burg , potholes, water and electricity shutdown that must be terrible. In Swaziland there are also areas with potholes, Msunduza & Khula etc.. Also have such issues but let’s hope the Municipalities will sort this issues out
Great trees there by the way????????????
Thank you! Yes we can only hope.
So beautiful. Nature always wins 😇