Last Tuesday I put on my big-girl pants — or, more accurately, my young-girl pants — and stayed out past midnight to attend the Sawubona Music Jam in Chiwelo, Soweto. I’ve known about the Sawubona Music Jam, which happens every Tuesday night, for years. But as a middle-aged person usually in bed by 9:30, I could never find the right time to travel to the far side of Soweto for a weeknight show that runs until 2:00 a.m.

But the stars finally aligned for me last week. My friend Sebo (of Caraci Clothing fame) invited me to the music jam and suggested dinner at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers in Orlando West beforehand. I arranged to spend the night at Lebo’s, which made the prospect of a late night feel much less intimidating, and our plan was set.

Although I’d been to Lebo’s and done their famous cycling tour multiple times, I’d never spent the night at the backpackers before. I’m so glad I finally did; I loved it and Lebo’s has shot to the top of my list of favorite places to stay in Joburg, not just for backpackers but for anyone.

A Night at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers

I wrote about Lebo’s, the cycling tour, and some of the other fun activities and amenities it offers in this 2020 post, so I won’t repeat all of that again. But I do have to share the horrible news that Lebo, a visionary entrepreneur who pioneered the concept of locally run tourism in Soweto, died in 2021 after battling covid. He was only 46 and left behind his wife, Maria (who now runs Lebo’s), and two young kids. I hadn’t been back to the backpackers since then, and it was nice to see Lebo’s legacy commemorated all around the lodge.

I’ve stayed in some questionable backpackers/hostels in my life, but Lebo’s is not one of them. The lodge is immaculate, lovingly decorated in a way that is both comfortable and classy, the staff are professional and fun, it’s quiet at night, the food is delicious, and the entire place is a delight. (Also, I don’t usually go out of my way to emphasize this but Lebo’s is completely and totally safe. In fact I’ve never felt safer anywhere in the world.)

Sebo, a bunch of friends, and me gathered at Lebo’s around 7:00 p.m. for a family-style dinner (available by reservation only). The staff at Lebo’s organizes an outing to the Sawubona Music Jam every Tuesday and most of the other overnight guests were also going; at around 9:00 p.m. we all piled into a few cars and transport vehicles and headed to the show, which is about 10 kilometers away from Lebo’s. (I always forget how big Soweto is.)

The Sawubona Music Jam

The Sawubona Music Jam, like most other music venues/events in Soweto, is hard to describe. It’s not a bar or a club; it’s a residential house, owned by a Soweto musician named Lucky Thobela, that has been kitted out for live music and hosting musical acts for many years. (I heard someone say it’s been around for about 15 years.) Like pretty much every musical gig I’ve been to in Soweto — which has one of the most vibrant music scenes in the world — all of the music at the music jam (even the music played between sets) was fantastic and like nothing I’ve ever heard before.

Neither my words nor my photos will do the Sawubona Music Jam any justice — this is a phenomenon that must be experienced in person.

Everyone staying at Lebo’s (me included) was exhausted by around 12:30 a.m., so we left “early”. (The show was still going.) I was safely in bed at the backpackers by about 1:00 a.m. I slept like a baby, woke up to Soweto birdsong, then drove the 20 minutes home to my Brixton workday after breakfast. I was extremely tired for the rest of the day but it was 100% worth it.

A Tuesday night out at Lebo’s and the Sawubona Music Jam makes a perfect midweek Joburg staycation — I implore all the music lovers among you to do it and bring your friends. Contact Lebo’s for more information about both the backpackers and the music jam. If you want to trek to the music jam on your own, you can find the location by searching “Sawubonamusicjam” on Google Maps.

My stay at Lebo’s Soweto Backpackers was complimentary. Opinions expressed are mine.