Every time I think I’ve visited all the historic churches in downtown Joburg, another one pops out of the woodwork. My latest “discovery” is the spectacular Cathedral of St. Mary the Virgin, or St. Mary’s Cathedral, on Wanderers Street in the Joburg CBD.
I put the word “discovered” in quotes because I really mean “discovered by me”. St. Mary’s Cathedral is not actually a secret; it’s enormous, as you can see, and extremely historic and culturally significant.
St. Mary’s Cathedral was built between 1926 and 1929, although the congregation was established far earlier in 1887. Like St. Alban’s Cathedral downtown and Christ the King Anglican Church in Sophiatown, St. Mary’s was designed by architect Frank Fleming (who worked with Herbert Baker). St. Mary’s was one of downtown Joburg’s first racially integrated churches and played a big role in the struggle against apartheid. Desmond Tutu, who was appointed the first Black dean of the cathedral in 1975, considered St. Mary’s his spiritual home. Today St. Mary’s is still meticulously maintained and has a small yet active congregation.
However, due to its location in one of the most intimidating sections of downtown Joburg, I had never seen nor heard of St. Mary’s until I participated in a recent tour of the church by the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation.
Archbishop Tutu, who died in December 2021 at the age of 90, had hoped to have his funeral at St. Mary’s Cathedral and be buried there. Sadly, due to the decline of the area around St. Mary’s, Tutu’s funeral and burial took place at St. George’s Cathedral in Cape Town.
Our Tour of St. Mary’s Cathedral
Our tour took place the day after Freedom Day, the public holiday marking South Africa’s first democratic elections and the 30th anniversary of democracy in South Africa. The group met in front of Park Station and walked through the busy station, back out across De Villiers Street to the cathedral. We entered the church through the unobtrusive doors at the back, which double as an entrance to Darragh House.
Once inside, I was awestruck by the sudden transition from dense, chaotic city madness to soaring, silent cathedral.
The highlight of our visit was a brief organ recital by Sidney Place, who has been the St. Mary’s organist for the past 31 years.
Thank you to the Johannesburg Heritage Foundation (JHF) for introducing me to yet another hidden (in plain sight) downtown Joburg church. If you’re not a JHF member yet, I highly recommend becoming one — they are doing essential work to preserve the fragile heritage of this city. Also becoming a member gives you a discount on JHF tours.
“I wish my pictures could play music” – LOL
Take some video with your phone next time <3
Hahaha, well of course I did that. But you know I’m way too lazy to create videos that are decent enough to put on my blog (and to figure out how to put videos on my blog at all).
My late husband and I were married in the cathedral 6th of June 1970 my husband and I were wanting to visit the Cathedral but may husband passed away on the 4th of January this year so I would love to go on a tour sometime
Thank you so much for sharing, Lynda. And I’m very sorry for your loss.
Sixty years ago I was married in the.smsll Chapel of St Mary’s Cathedral by Dean Barron.
For many years Richard Cock was choir master at St Mary’s.
That beautiful Cathedral.holds many fond memories for me.
Harry Oppenheimer’s daughter Mary was also married there, as was Rev Michael Faure.
Thanks for sharing, Elizabeth. We heard on the tour that Mary Oppenheimer’s wedding was quite the event!
Many memories. Was confirmed in St Mary’s and grew up under the Hon. Rev. Desmond Tutus watchful eye from the pulpit. What a wonderful blog.
Aw, that’s so cool, Michele!
Coming in from the chaos outside to the serenity inside is somewhat mind boggling. It sure is a very impressive church with so much history attached.
Yes, especially coming in through that weird entrance at the back!
Loving this Blog – Tessa and I being muso’s and she being a singer, we love visiting Kerks! And hearing the organ + choirs – Well done! [again!]
I also can’t get enough of the kerks 🙂
This is wonderful Heather thank you so much. I often learn so much from you. Most people, including myself, only know Tutu’s history from the 1980s onwards when he lived in Cape Town. This must have been in the 1970s.
Yes, I believe he lived in Joburg on and off until the mid-1980s. Also he had a house on Vilakazi Street in Soweto (hence that street becoming famous as being home to two Nobel Peace Prize winners at the same time).
How beautiful, and yet also how sad about the shelved revitalization project. Is there any chance you got any organ music on video? Would love to hear it if it’s on Instagram!
I did take some – it was (momentarily) on my Instagram story. I’ll try to remember to put it in highlights.
Thanks!
St. John’s College has its Christmas service there every year. They bus all of the students and parents there. The church is packed top to bottom. I have a great video I would love to share with you. Hearing 750 young men singing in that space still gives me chills.
Oh wow, that’s so cool! I’d love to see it.
Please share the video. 0828403959 Whatsapp. Or Blueicetm@outlook.com
Thank you.
Was such a joy to have you all at the Cathedral on the 28th April. Thank you for sharing. Fr Adrian
Thanks so much Father Adrian!
Does the church still gives services?
Yes it does! Both in-person and online. I think the details are on their Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/cathedralofstmarythevirgin
My sister rosemary was confirmed at st. Mary’s In the 1980’s, beautiful ⛪️ church.
I used to pop in there on my way to work for guidance for the day.
Would love to hear that organ video 📹
Berinice Kay
Hey. I was part of the tour on that Sunday. What a lovely tour of the St Mary Cathedral. It is an oasis of peace in the doldrums of chaos that is the centre of Johannesburg. A lovely piece you wrote on the tour. Cheers.
Thanks so much!