My Top 5 Moments in the Great State of Maine

by | Nov 9, 2024 | Food and Drink, Parks/Nature Reserves, USA | 8 comments

Given this week’s political nuclear bomb blast, it feels like a weird time to publish a light-hearted post about my recent (pre-election) jaunt through the United States. But I’m hoping you’ve have had enough of the U.S. election horror show — I know I have — and are ready (at least temporarily) for some wholesome American travel adventures. If so, please read on about my four-day visit to Maine, the northeastern-most state in the lower 48, with my sister, Susanna.

Susanna walking around Jordan Pond in Acadia National Park, Maine
Susanna walks along a path next to Jordan Pond in Maine’s Acadia National Park.

I have a dream to eventually visit all 50 U.S. states, and I now try to visit a new state each time I go back. (I travel to the U.S. about once a year.) Last year Susanna and I met in Rhode Island, and this year we hit Maine, my final state along the U.S. eastern seaboard. (I have a total of nine U.S. states left to go.)

A google map showing where Maine is
In case you don’t know where Maine is — it’s outlined in red.

Incidentally, it takes a ridiculously long time to travel from South Africa to Maine. After my 29-hour plane journey from Joburg to Portland (the biggest city in Maine), which included layovers in both Paris and New York, I rented a car, spent one night at a hotel in Portland, then drove 4.5 hours to Bar Harbor — home to Acadia National Park — the next day. (That drive is possible in three hours but I took the scenic route.)

It was utterly exhausting but worth it; despite the sketchy weather and big crowds — we were there at the beginning of the busy autumn leaf-peeping season — Maine is beautiful and really unique. I’m so happy I finally got there.

Heather in the woods on Cadillac Mountain.
A happy selfie I shot in the woods on Cadillac Mountain. The pine trees in those woods smelled amazing, like pine-scented perfume.

Top 5 Moments in Maine

1) Eating Maine Food

Maine is known for its lobster, and I ate a lot of it. Maine’s lobster totally lives up to the hype, as do the lobster restaurants, called lobster pounds or lobster shacks. These joints tend to be brightly painted in red and white, decorated with catchy lobster imagery and colorful lobster trap buoys. Paying through the nose for delicious, outrageously expensive lobster is somehow a lot easier in such fun, quirky settings.

My first lobster shack experience was a lobster roll lunch at Claws in Rockland, Maine, where I stopped during my drive from Portland to Bar Harbor.

Outside Claws in Rockland.
Lobster roll from Claws, with a view of the sea
I was deliriously tired and didn’t think to take a decent camera picture of my Claws lobster roll before eating it, so here’s a mediocre phone shot. This is one of the best things I’ve eaten all year: A full lobster’s worth of meat, with just the right amount of mayo, served on a thick, lightly toasted and buttered piece of bread. It cost a whopping $30 (about R520) and was worth every penny.

Susanna and I also really enjoyed the Bar Harbor Lobster Pound, which was just down the road from where we stayed outside Acadia National Park.

Outdoor seating area at Bar Habor Lobster Pound
The outdoor seating area at Bar Harbor Lobster Pound.
Susanna and I photograph our lobster dinner at Bar Harbor Lobster Pound
Our big lobster dinner. We thought we were ordering one lobster but somehow got two. Lobsters aren’t as hard to eat as you might think — the majority of the meat is in the claws and tail.
Susanna's photo of the lobster dinner, featuring lobster bisque
Susanna ordered lobster bisque in a bread bowl. (Photo: Susanna Mason)

My other favorite food in Maine was the homemade wild blueberry pie I bought from Mount Desserts, a tiny bakery inside a private home in Bar Harbor. Wild blueberries taste totally different than farmed blueberries — they are much less sweet — and this pie was outstanding. Susanna isn’t a huge fan of pie so I ate almost the entire thing myself.

Slice of wild blueberry pie from Mount Desserts in Bar Harbor, Maine
Once again, I didn’t take a decent photo before devouring it. My mouth is watering as I look at this.

2) Cadillac Mountain

Cadillac Mountain, the highest mountain on the U.S. eastern seaboard at 1530 feet (465 meters), is a popular tourist attraction in Acadia National Park, and is particularly popular to visit at sunrise and sunset. I visited Cadillac Mountain twice during my trip, both times just after sunrise.

It was super foggy when I woke up the first morning, so I almost didn’t go, but decided to try anyway as I’d already booked a ticket. (It costs $6 per car to drive up Cadillac Mountain and you must book in advance.) As I drove reluctantly up the winding road, the mist suddenly cleared and I realized the Cadillac summit was above the clouds.

Near the summit of Cadillac Mountain, above the clouds
My first electrifying look at the view from Cadillac Mountain.
People looking out at the view from the summit of Cadillac Mountain
I was there at just the right time: after sunrise but before the mid- to late-morning crowds rolled in. There were still quite a lot of people there though.
Three people standing at the top of Cadillac Mountain
It is possible to hike up Cadillac Mountain but I wasn’t that organized. There are lots of trails on the summit, though, and I did a nice walk up there.

Susanna wasn’t with me yet on that first morning, so we went back to Cadillac Mountain together two days later. Unfortunately the clouds were a lot thicker that morning and alas, the summit was not above them.

Susanna standing in thick fog at the top of Cadillac Mountain
Susanna’s view from the summit of Cadillac Mountain. She was a good sport about it and we still enjoyed strolling through the mist.

3) Jordan Pond

Jordan Pond, actually a small lake, is another popular attraction in Acadia. The first time Susanna and I tried to go there, we had to give up because the parking lot was full. We returned right before sunset, the crowds had almost totally dissipated, and it was stunning.

View of Jordan Pond
Jordan Pond.

There is a 3.5-mile (5.6-kilometer) hike around the pond, which we did not initially intend to do. But the path was so lovely and Susanna convinced me that we should complete the loop, despite the fact that we knew it would be totally dark for the second half of the hike. I was extremely reluctant (there are so many ways to die while hiking in the dark!) and I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this — we had to scramble around a couple of big boulders in a dark forest with nothing but cell phone flashlights — but 99% of the hike was super easy and I don’t think it would have been enjoyable to do it earlier, as it was just too crowded.

And then, just as we were about to leave the pond, we saw the Northern Lights!

The Northern Lights as seen through my iPhone.
The Northern Lights as seen through my iPhone. (They weren’t visible to the naked eye — Susanna just happened to snap a picture of the dark sky and saw them.) This was a few days before the big geomagnetic storm during which people all over the world saw the Northern Lights — the show came early to New England.

4) Asticou Azalea Garden

Susanna and I discovered the Asticou Azalea Garden, a private garden a few minutes’ drive from Bar Harbor, by chance one morning while trying to escape the crowds in Acadia. It’s beautiful, admission is free (although visitors are asked to give a donation), and I got my best fall foliage photos of the trip in there. I highly recommend it — it must be even more beautiful in the spring when the azaleas are in bloom.

Leaves changing in the Asticou Azalea Garden
Leaves changing in the Asticou Azalea Garden.
Susanna sitting on a rock under a tree in the garden
Best tree in the garden.

5) An Acadia Sunset

One evening, while driving around the park with no particular destination in mind, we happened upon a spectacular sunset. It had been raining for much of the day and the sky cleared right before the sun went down. Mist rose up from Jordan Pond in little wisps, lit up by the sun, creating what looked like dozens of little orange and pink fires.

An incredible sunset in Acadia National Park
Sunset of the year. Not shown: Dozens of tourists, who had squeezed their cars into a small scenic overlook, politely jostling each other with iPhones held aloft. It was worth it.

*Honorable Mention: Thunder Hole and Eden Village

Although not included in my top 5, I award honorable mention to Thunder Hole, another site in Acadia National Park that was too crowded for us to see during daylight hours. (Cruise ships visit Bar Harbor and there were two big ships in the harbor during the weekend we were there. Our attempt to visit Thunder Hole during the day coincided with a throng of cruise tourist buses.)

But after the amazing sunset featured above, we got lost trying to drive out of the park and wound up back at Thunder Hole. We wandered down in the dark (a trend of this trip) and finally understood what the hype is about: Thunder Hole is a narrow inlet along the rocky coast, naturally carved out by the surf, where the waves rise up and crash and make a noise exactly like thunder. I have zero pictures but I assure you Thunder Hole is worth a visit, even with crowds.

I also want to briefly mention the Eden Village Motel & Cottages, where we stayed in Bar Harbor. Eden Village is a quirky old motel (there are many of these in Bar Harbor) with a bunch of cottages, like little tiny houses, scattered around the property. We stayed in one of the tiny houses and found it very quaint.

Eden Village grounds
On the grounds of Eden Village.
Inside our little house, which had pretty murals painted on the walls
Our one-bedroom cottage (the couch also folds out into a bed). I really liked the homespun murals and the funky electric fireplace.

That’s it for Maine. Thanks again to Susanna for being part of my 50-state quest.

Heather and Susanna selfie at Jordan Pond
Can you tell we’re sisters? The end.

I’m planning for Arkansas or Minnesota in 2025.

8 Comments

  1. Ruth

    Lovely photos (though as often with US phenomena the food portions are just too huge!!) but you guys had better prepare to save your national parks ‘cos the Profa Orange Blob doesn’t rate such stuff!!

    Reply
    • 2summers

      Thank you for the advice.

      Reply
  2. Ljd

    Lovely pics. We are South Africans who live in Massachusetts and love going to Maine anytime we can. You really got to see some great spots. Hope you had the best time.

    Reply
    • 2summers

      Ah, cool! I realized on this trip that I really like New England. Thanks 🙂

      Reply
  3. Ms. Nancy Anne McDaniel

    Maine is so beautiful and autumn is especially gorgeous,. I;ve never been to Acadia though. Thanks for sharing your gorgeous photos . I know many people who saw the Northern Lights in the US this year – and all through their cellphone – any idea why that happens? Glad you had lobster — the prices are sticker shock for Americans. I can’t even imagine it when you are thinking rand!!!

    Reply
    • 2summers

      I have a feeling we’ll be ‘seeing’ a lot more Northern Lights on the future…Clearly the newest smart phone censors are much stronger than the naked eye! It’s an interesting phenomenon.

      Reply
  4. AutumnAshbough

    SO beautiful. I love the park and how the random places you visited wound up being some of the best ones. Not a fan of lobster myself, but I’m glad you got your fill!

    Reply
    • 2summers

      Thanks. Exactly – would have guessed that night hiking in Acadia is a thing?

      Reply

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