As of today, my street in Brixton has been without water for 14 days. In other words, not a drop of water has come out of our faucets for two full weeks. There’s no meaningful update from the city on when the water will start flowing again.

Thorsten and I wash by taking bucket baths or showering at friends’ houses every couple of days. We flush our toilets as infrequently as possible. We wash our hands less. We wash our produce less. I think I even eat less because washing dishes is such a pain. And we are among the lucky ones: We have a car and can at least travel to friends in other neighborhoods to refill our water containers, do laundry, etc…at least as long as the water supply holds in those neighborhoods. The majority of people living without water don’t have that option. I can’t imagine how those with babies or small children are coping.

Parts of Melville and Westdene have been out for 23 days. Parktown West: Two weeks. Greenside and Emmarentia: Ten days plus. The list goes on and on, and the government seems to be doing very little to address this crisis. Businesses are closed. Schools are closed. Yesterday I met a woman in the street who literally begged me for a drink of water. (I gave her one.)  We all feel powerless, hopeless, thirsty, and dirty.

This little boy was yelling, “We want water!” over and over again from his Melville apartment window this morning.

No one is even sure exactly why this is happening. Joburg’s water infrastructure has been deteriorating for years and we’ve had many shorter outages in the past, but up until now there has been at least some semblance of (poor) communication from Johannesburg Water about what’s happening, why, and when we can expect the water to be restored. This time, we’re either hearing empty platitudes or worse: deafening silence. It’s infuriating and flat-out terrifying.

“Gatvol” is an extremely effective South African slang term that means, “I’m fu*king done.”

I’ve been feeling super down about this situation, and couldn’t find the motivation to blog about anything remotely cheerful this week. But yesterday I received a WhatsApp message about a water protest happening in Melville this morning, and my spirits immediately lifted. There’s nothing like a good South African protest to turn one’s mood around, and this protest didn’t disappoint.

People protesting at the corner of 4th Avenue and Main Rd., Melville. Those of you living in Joburg will appreciate the double meaning of my friend Tamzyn’s sign (left).

The Protest in Pictures

I know it’s kind of weird to say this protest lifted my spirits. This is a serious, life-and-death issue and obviously protesting doesn’t bring the water back — at least not immediately. But it felt good to get out there with my fellow Joburgers and do something, anything, other than sit at home and fret.

South Africans know how to have fun while protesting. They’ve been doing it for decades.

The protest started at 6:00 a.m. this morning at the busy corner of 4th Avenue and Main Road, Melville. Participants came armed with signs, camping chairs, empty water containers to bang together, and some rocks and bricks to put in the road. They blocked one lane of traffic in each direction, at rush hour, and encouraged all the passing motorists to hoot (honk) if they don’t have water. There was a LOT of hooting, and not just because of the traffic.

Blocked traffic.

Gatvol.

I have no idea who this man is, but he was dressed in a suit and tie and hardly moved from the center of the intersection all morning.

One of many passing motorists who clearly didn’t mind the traffic delay.

Right on.

Even the dog is gatvol.

I came armed with my camera and took many, many pictures, knowing that I would go home and share them with all of you. I’m grateful for the opportunity to act.

One of my favorite signs.

My overall prize for best swag and stage presence goes to this colorful man.

If you’re living without water in Joburg and couldn’t be at the protest, please know that you’re not alone. We’re right here with you.

Amandla.